“…We don’t have any ice screws, do you think that will be a problem?”

“…We don’t have any ice screws, do you think that will be a problem?”

In the winter of 2009, as high pressure sat firm and fixed over Scotland and low pressure dominated in the French Alps. Pete Benson and I, both resident in the Chamonix Valley, took the unusual decision to fly from France to Scotland for the week. The final climb of the week, a snatch in thaw conditions, was what we thought at the time to be Mick Fowler’s and Mike Morrison’s wild and only once repeated in twenty two years, West Central Gully on Beinn Eighe. Pete showed some pictures to Guy Robertson and it was discovered we had actually climbed a new variation, passing right instead of left around the large overhang. Pete Benson supplied Simon Richardson with the information about the ascent and named it The Bullhorn/Benson Variation….

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